Some breads are better than others. In the Bay Area, we are blessed with many choices, but for me none can touch Della Fattoria, a bakery in Petaluma that makes bread in wood-fired ovens at a ranch outside the town to be sold at select San Francisco shops as well as The Ferry Building Farmers' Market. Full disclosure: I help deal bread for Della occasionally at The Ferry Building. I'm happy to do it, as it's one of the Bay Area's most revered products, and the people who buy it really appreciate its quality. Customers routinely sing its praises. Europeans express gratitude for giving them a taste of home. Chefs pick up the scarce goods to impress the table, and I get to come home with an exquisite loaf like this boule of semolina, my favorite bake. When I take it out of its bag and put it on the cutting board, I pause to smell it & look at it admiringly. It's so beautiful. 'Tis a pity it must be devoured, this lovely staff of life.
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