Friday, March 23, 2012

Canteen at 817 Sutter

Canteen by The Commodore by deanv41
Canteen by The Commodore, a photo by deanv41 on Flickr.

This site is decidedly not a food blog. Of course, I love the dining culture in San Francisco but I'd rather say simply, "I liked the meal at this place," or go because the experience & interior are special. I don't fetishize fine dining to quite the extent that serious 'Foodies' here do. I find such extreme critique off-putting, just as certain culinary trends can irritate (bacon fad be gone! Molecular Gastronomy implode!) or the gross pricing at restaurants for the love of money alone.
Local restauranteur, Dennis Leary, is giving the City's food scene a sensible kick in the opposite direction with his small but solid spots around downtown including Golden West, The Sentinel, & Canteen. As for that last entry, my Sunday brunch there was terrific, top to bottom. From the simple but warm wooden interior like an unfussy Danish cafe -- shelves full of books, a very nice touch -- to the food on the plate both identifiable and artfully arranged without any hint of pretension, it speaks to a current need for good, simpler food in smaller neighborhood locations. The Sentinel is on an alley corner off New Montgomery, and Golden West is tucked away deep in The Financial District on Trinity Alley. Canteen, at 817 Sutter near Jones Street in The TenderNob, is well-located in a rising downtown neighborhood, one I've sung the praises of in other posts. I've only been for Sunday brunch so I can't speak to the kitchen's range at night, but I'll certainly be back 'round again. A canteen is, after all, simply a place to eat and a vessel to quench your thirst. Don't over-think it.

Inside Canteen

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